Thu Jul 07, 2005 6:19 am

Ozbrewer.... wrote:Hi Guys, I finally got to catch all of this weeks show,

Well done, its getting better and batter each week, Goon on Krotchrott for sending in his beer, man that took guts to be first up.

the guest speeker was fantastic, and the quizz should...no must happen every week, im hoping ill be home for the next show so i can be live online


I listened to the show in it's entirety last night and I agree, this was by far the best show yet. Jamil's expertise is worth it's weight in gold and I look forward to the show being archived so I can refer back to it and take notes. Plus, getting on the air to play Beer Jeopardy was a blast. Keep up the good work, Brewcasters!
"Make beer not war"

Currently fermenting: Firestone Walker Pale 31 clone
Conditioning: Nothing
On draught: Nothing

Watch episodes of BYOB TV: http://www.kofytv.com/byob-tv/archive/
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BeerPal
 
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Thu Jul 07, 2005 8:13 am

hiroller173 wrote:Here are a couple of the things I picked up - please let me know if I misunderstood or misinterpreted...

1) You don't need to start hopping at 60 min+. Do the calculations to calculate to the correct IBU's and move the hopping until later in the boil (way later, like 10 min and 1 min). This gives you huge flavor and aroma with the appropriate level of bitterness.

2) Ferment cooler. It sounded like 5-8 degrees under the White Labs recommendation was best. Yeast manufacturers tell you the temperature that will ferment the quickest, not necessarily with the most flavor or character (my interpretation).

3) Get the wort cooled to at or better yet under the fermentation temp prior to pitching.

4) Get the wort off the break by letting it settle overnight (8-12 hours) and rack it off before pitching (this also gives the wort time to get to the desired fermentation temperature)

How'd I do? 8)

Fred


Great job. A couple of clarifications.

1) Right. This works really well for beers where you want a big aroma and flavor. I wouldn't use it for styles where hop aroma and flavor are not wanted.

2) In general, it pays to ferment cooler rather than warmer, because you get a cleaner fermentation with less harsh alcohol character (in big beers especially). Of course, in order to ferment cooler, you'll need to be pitching lots of clean, healthy yeast. There is also a bottom limit to where the yeasts will ferment. If you get too cold, the yeast will drop out. It is kind of a case by case, yeast by yeast thing. No real specific number of degrees. The white lab ranges seemed to be higher than I prefer, but in general I think fermenting in the range that they provide is best. I'm not sure I'd ferment outside their range without understanding what will happen. They're the yeast experts, I'm just a brewer. :wink:

3) I always cool to fermentation temp before pitching, but it is most important for lagers. For lagers, I cool to ~44F and I let it drift up from there only about 3 or 4 degrees. I would not cool ales below fermentation temp.

4) I only do this for lagers, because I need to get the temp so low and I need to get rid of the trub. For ales, I don't think it is worth the bother. For lagers, you need to get rid of the break material. If you're going to do this, you need to make sure your sanitation is flawless. Letting your wort sit overnight can give the bacteria a great head start.

JZ
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jamilz
 
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Fri Jul 08, 2005 7:18 pm

Excellent.

Between the show and the responses, I'd say my brewing's been kicked up a COUPLE of notches...

Thanks again.

Fred

BTW, do you all pronounce it "troob"? If so, my sig is screwed... :oops:
"I don’t want no trub..."
hiroller173
 
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Fri Jul 08, 2005 8:17 pm

hiroller173 wrote:Excellent.

Between the show and the responses, I'd say my brewing's been kicked up a COUPLE of notches...

Thanks again.

Fred

BTW, do you all pronounce it "troob"? If so, my Sig is screwed... :oops:

I second that, the knowledge we have access to in the forums and thebrewingnetwork.com is a tremendous help.
I say "TRUB" not "TROOB" and "WORT" not "WERT"
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Sat Jul 09, 2005 9:30 am

Technically, it is TROOB and WERT.

JZ
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jamilz
 
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Sat Jul 09, 2005 10:11 am

jamilz wrote:1) Right. This works really well for beers where you want a big aroma and flavor. I wouldn't use it for styles where hop aroma and flavor are not wanted.


Jamil, how does this technique compare to FWH and dry hopping? Does it give you more flavor and aroma, or is it another way to get about the same results?
Denny
 
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Sat Jul 09, 2005 12:04 pm

Personally, I don't believe that FHW does much to improve the aroma. I know there are many respected brewers that believe in it, but not me.

Dry hopping, to my senses, results in a more resiny/grassy character than any other type of hopping. There are times when you want that and it is really easy to achieve through dry hopping.

The thing I'm finding with this massive late hopping/no bittering is that you get two characteristics that a lot of brewers really have trouble developing. That is 1) high levels of bittering, without being harsh and 2) big hop aroma without the resiny effect of dry hopping. For example, in a CAP, you wouldn't want the resiny character, but you do want significant bittering and aroma. I think this technique is perfect for that style.

You also get a lot more flavor from this technique, but that was never hard to achieve using traditional methods.

JZ
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Mon Jul 11, 2005 6:38 pm

Does anybody have it recorded?
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