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Recirculating mash, temp target questions

http://canyoubrewit.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=24437

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Recirculating mash, temp target questions

Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 8:06 am
by pfooti
Hey BN,

I'm getting a new brewing setup soon (*fidgets*), and will be moving from my cooler-based MLT to a direct fire RMS. Which is to say, I'm putting a boilermaker on top of a burner and using a pump to recirculate. Assuming I watch the temperature and turn the flame on and off at appropriate times, this seems like a reasonable thing to do. It's a new process for me, and I'll play with it a bit, but I'd love some insights too.

1) Do you normally want to target your sac rest temp (15X) when you strike the grains, or should I try to hit a lower (120F) range for a dough-in temp and then ramp up the temperature afterwards.

2) With a march pump recirculating, do you recirc the entire time, or only when you're running the heat? I could see benefits to always recircing, but I imagine you lose a bit more heat that way.

3) Are the brewmometers in the boilermakers at a reasonable location to get a sense of the actual mash temp with this direct-fire setup, or should I instead install a thermometer probe in my outflow hookup? I've already blown the budget on the pots, so I'm trying to use what's available already, but not if that means I'm consistently overheating my wort (a worry, given the temperature-sensitivity of a mash). I could also just keep poking the top of the grain bed with my thermapen too, I suppose.

Re: Recirculating mash, temp target questions

Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 8:59 am
by krizwit
If you dont need/want to do a step mash, dont bother. I recommend going a little @+2 above your desired temp and then jsut keep stirring until the mash cools to it.

You want a really low flame when doing a direct fire recirc. (especially with the Blichmann pots since they dont have a tri-layer)

Experience is key with how much you should recirc and turn on the flame. When the flame is on, you have to recirculate. Use your existing thermometer to measure the temp of the wort going back into the kettle. You have to figure it will be a few degrees cooler than the wort coming right out of the ball valve, but at least you wont have to buy a thermowell, T, and fittings.
I was able to use reflectix insulation(bubble wrap sandwiched between heavy duty alum foil) on the upper half of my mashtun without melting it while the flame was low. I only turned the flame on at the end to clarify the wort and bring the temp up.

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