Beer Forum

I am currently looking to up grade my mash tun from a 10 gal rubbermaid cooler. My biggest reason for doing this is to have the ability to do step mashes without water infusions. My #1 choice right now is blichmann boilermaker with false bottom and possibly the autosparge. I want to use this in a direct fire set up using a pump for vorlauf. from what i have read the biggest draw back to this step up is the possibility of a scorched mash. Looking for advice making this up grade. Thanks

I'll +1 this post. I'm in exactly the same boat.

I'm jumpin in this boat with you guys! Gonna convert a Sanke for MT and wondered about stirring with the dip tube in the center, ect. I presume this is nesessary even when recirculating the mash to prevent scortching grains. Hope to make this a big build year.

I've been using a sanke (direct fired) for a while now and initially had one or two scorched mashes until I figured out my setup.

Unless you're going to use a temp probe and controller that regulates flame on/off time, I would suggest against the direct fired route. That may seem pretty basic, but I had to say it.
The key, in my opinion, is proper temp probe placement. I had my problems until I put the probe in my wort out line.

I think that if the temperature of the wort out is controlled precisely within 3 degrees and the wort is constantly recirculated you won't have any problems... I don't. 5 degrees would probably work, but I like to keep it tight. The key is you don't want it to drift 10 degrees and apply a shit ton of heat.
The key is to watch how much flame you apply to your mash. Don't try to raise temps too quickly or too far at any given time while mashing. I can still do step mashes and mash out just fine with no scorching.

I also have a center pickup... when I have to stir it isn't a problem. But, I usually stir to loosen up the mash, not to prevent scorching. Mashes with a tight draw (aka near stuck) are the biggest problem with constant recirc... but that may be my false bottom. I have a new one that I haven't used yet that may change that thought.


I also like peanut butter toast... with lots of butter

Use a keggle mt that is direct fired by a be burner and only had 1 scorched mash, the first mash I did. Mine has a 9inch fb in it so there is a decten amount of grain against the bottom of the keg, but the key is to have a good fluid mash and to keep it moving (I just continuously recirc). You also will find out that a very low flame will do all the work you need, there is no time that you need the burner at full blast.
When I scorched my mash I compacted the grains since I opened the valve on the mt and pump wide open and also cranked the heat. Needless to say I did alot of stirring that nigh and added a bit of cold water back to drop the temp.

I tried a couple direct fire step mashes. I didn't have a problem with scorched grain but with stuck mashes. You need to be able to run the pump at a slow enough rate so you don't get a stuck mash, but also prevent the wort from getting too hot in the bottom of the tun. You also want to be able to make it to your next rest temp in a reasonable time (before the mash has converted).

What I settled on was using direct injection of steam from a pressure cooker with a simple ball valve for heat control. The specifics came from http://www.brewingtechniques.com/librar ... jones.html.

That's the kind of info I've been interesred in hearing. Thanks. Very interesting solution, Quin, and a cool looking 3tier too.

And you don't want to do HERMS or RIMS because?

Cool on the steam injection thing.